Beautiful professional Knife sharpening with Nubatama ume 4000 and 6000

Posted on February 26, 2012 by admin

Knife sharpening with Nubatama ume 4000 and 6000

Nubatama ume 4k and 6k

Testing Knife sharpening with the Nubatama ume 4k and 6k, are so different compared with the other stones in the series. First off they are both medium-fine stones, so I will mostly comment on how they feel and what kind of finish they leave. The 4k is medium hard and muddy, a lot like an Aoto. The 6k is hard, so hardly any dishing, no mud is just black swarf from the steel, a great pre-finisher. They both cut fast for their grit range, if any complaints the 4k leaves that green/yellow stain on everything. They both leave a very fine shiny if not mirrorish finish depending on the steel.

Knife sharpening progression

In the pictures below I will show the progression from unsharpened to strop, to demonstrate the whole knife sharpening progression, and where the Nubatamas fit in, in the progress.

Knife before sharpening

Knife after sharpening on 1000 grit stone

Knife after sharpening on 2000 grit stone

Knife after sharpening on Nubatama ume 4000 grit stone

As you see the use of Nubatama ume 4000 in the sharpening progression, does a fine job of refining the edge. It feels super smooth, cuts well and it doesn’t mud too much, and it is not rock hard so it still has great feedback. The finish it leaves looks surprisingly more polished than I would have thought; it feels and behaves like a Chosera 3000 stone. This would be a perfect final stone when sharpening soft steel knives.

Knife after sharpening on Nubatama ume 6000 grit stone

Knife sharpening with the 6000 is very different from the 4000, it’s harder, cuts slower, and in close-up it refines the edge with a slightly finer scratch pattern. The most surprising though is that to the naked eye, the polish from the 4000 looks better. At first, I thought I did something wrong, so I retested several times side by side with different knives and every time the 4000 left a better finish to the naked eye, but in close up the 6000 had a slightly better finish. Speculation could be that they have different abrasive densities or different kinds of binding material. If I continue to finer stones, the result of the 6k is better.

Knife after sharpening on 8000 grit stone

They both clean up well on finer grit stones, but the 6k is a better pre-finisher.

Knife sharpening, final edge after stropping

Edge after a fast tour on the leather strop.

Conclusion:

I see no need to buy both of these stones for knives because they are not that different. I love the 4000; it is a really nice, fast-cutting stone that leaves an awesome finish. The only thing I don’t like is that green/yellow color that stains everything. The 6000 is also a really good stone that leaves a finer scratch pattern. Its hardness and low mud make it perfect for straight razors.

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpening in Santa Monica. 1-310-486-6068

The master sharpeners, of two professional knife sharpening stones.

Posted on February 19, 2012 by admin

Quality evaluation of Nubatama ume #320 vs Bester #500

I just got 4 Nubatama Ume stones #320, #1k, #4k and #6k. I was hesitant to buy them because the only reviews I could find were from the people selling them. I will start with the Nubatama Ume #320, and compare it to my favorite coarse stone Bester #500. It will replace the bester in my setup if it is up to the task. I love the Bester, it cuts fast and gives decent feedback. The downside is that I use a lot of pressure with the coarse stones, they dish fast and are tough to flatten.

I use up 10-15 bester #500 a year, and it dries out way too quickly, so it’s not problem-free for me. I know I could use DMT, but I don’t like the feedback. The list of coarse stones I have tested in this grit range is extended. The one that got closest to Bester was Chosera #400 it did dish but not as much and left a nicer finish. It was not as fast, and time is money.

Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500 water stones

Drying time test and dish compare of the whetstones

First I will compare, cutting speed, dishing, general feel, and the finish they leave. The Nubatama came really flat, I still gave it a fast flattening to get rid of that glossy new stone feel.

Drying time compair between Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

Drying time compared between Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

One thing that bothers me with Bester is how fast it dries out, so that was the first thing I tested. The Nubatama is a bit better, 48sec for Nubatama and 34sec for Bester. It’s almost a 50% improvement that will make a small improvement.

2 brand new Kiwi knives to use to compare Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

The cutting speed

To make the cutting speed test fair, I have used 2 brand new cheapo Kiwi knives. I know it’s cheap somewhat soft stainless, but at least it will give me an idea of how fast they cut. I have sharpened Henckel twin cermax RC 66 on Bester, but it takes a lot of time, so I know Bester’s limit.

Within time I will test the Nubatama on some tough steel too, and report how it went. I expected Nubatama to be slower cutting than Bester, after seeing how glossy. Well it wasn’t, it just took 6 strokes to get a good burr with Nubatama and 10 strokes to get a burr on Bester. So Nubatama Ume #320 cut faster and it behaves as expected for a #320 grit stone.

Edge finish difference between Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

The finish

The Bester isn’t known to leave a nice finish, but Nubatamas finish at least on the burr is even rougher as it should be for a low grit stone. What I think is fascinating though, is that the surface is slightly greyer from the Nubatama which is usually a sign of a finer stone. Time will tell but I think that Bester leaves a better finish.

The difference in dishing between Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

Dishing test

Here comes the most positive surprise Nubatama dishes less, but not by much. The picture is taken after 50 strokes on the corner of each stone, and as you see it is obvious, that Bester dishes a little bit more. So taking in effect that Nubatama is faster cutting and dishes slightly less, it should mean much less stone flattening.

Feedback and feel

There was very little difference in sound between them, and the feel was somewhat the same too. The Nubatama doesn’t have the annoying sticky feel under pressure as the Bester has. It feels a bit sandier, and rougher. They both have a similar amount of feedback feeling. I think I prefer the feel of the Nubatama. (it might just be that the Nub is the newest one and that I just have an hour on it)

I did a fast test cleaning up the scratches on a higher grit stone. In this case, I used a Bester #2000 grit. They both cleaned up equally fast, it makes me think that the finish from the Nubatama just looked rougher and they were pretty much the same.

Flattening: They are both pretty hard stones to flatten, but I think it went slightly faster to flatten the Bester.

Conclusion:

Nubatama positive: Twice the size, cuts faster, dishes slightly less, and doesn’t dry out as quickly as Bester.
Nubatama neg: Leave a slightly rougher finish and a bit harder to flatten.
Bester pos: Leave a slightly better finish, easier to flatten
Bester neg: Cuts slower, dishes more, dries out faster

After using the Nubatama a little bit more, I prefer the feel and performance of it over the Bester and it is the coarse stone I will be using from now on. I will keep the Bester, in case the Nub doesn’t perform well on a high-performance steel.

Update: After some heavy use the last week, I still love the stone. I have sharpened some hard steel +rc61 knives on it, and the nub dish as much as Bester if not a little more wish was a bit disappointing. I have realized that it is much easier to flatten than my first impression, so it evens out. One other thing it is a rather muddy stone, and it helps the cutting speed a lot, the mud is the grainy sandy kind so it is a bit messy and not the most pleasant one.

Santa Monica knife Sharpening, call/txt 310-486-6068 or email.

For more of my tests check my Instagram @santamonicashrp

How to sharpen a Global knife as a professional

Posted on February 15, 2012 by admin

How to sharpen a Global knives

Some beautiful Global knives

Global knives outperform any of the German knife brands.

I know they were super popular in the 70-80s, but they haven’t gotten the attention they deserve. Maybe because they sold so many of them, and many have been neglected over time. Many of the ones I get need reprofiling and thinning, and most have had bad sharpening jobs.

I love Global knives, they are light, they stay sharp, they look good, and they are easy to keep clean. They are affordable and available everywhere. So it makes me sad, to see how many of them are ruined from bad sharpening. Miss-aligned edges, wrong edge formation, and wrong edge bevel angle. Some are so overheated from grinding machines and belt sanders, that they look like rainbows. If they are sharpened correctly, they are one of the best affordable knives you could have.

This is how you sharpen your Global knives

– They should be hand-sharpened and deburred on stones.

– The edge formation should be slightly convex on the top of the bevel to blend it into the blade.

– The edge should have an angle between 11°-15°, and a 2000-4000 grit finish is optimal.

Global knife performance: Catra test of new knives report

The little video above shows what performance you should be able to expect from a newly sharpened Global knife. Maybe not, if you prefer an edge with more bite, but you should at least be able to slice thin slices of tomatoes and shave with it when it is newly sharpened.

It is definitely possible to get a Global knife way sharper than it was when it was new, check Global’s CATRA report on the “Hand sharpen performance” link above.

My process for sharpening a Global knife

Assessment is it clean, straight, any damages? This is what I take care of first.
I start with a thinning blade right above the edge bevel. 0.2mm thickness behind the edge is sufficient no need to thin more.
After that, I set the bevel at 10 degrees with 700 grit Bester. Making sure I raise a nice even burr, before finishing the bevel with a couple of edge trailing strokes.
After each stone, I test the edge before I continue. My tests at this stage are, does it bite into my wet fingernail and can slice a hard-rolled Kleenex effortlessly?
The second stone is a 2000-grit Bester. I raise the bevel a little to 12 degrees and blend the top edge of it into the blade, rolling it down a little at the end of the strokes. Finally, I deburr with a couple of trailing strokes.
After this stage, I test in the same way as earlier, but also make sure it’s shaving sharp.
For the final stage, I use a natural Japanese stone. Usually, an Aoto of some kind gives a nice finish and bite. The final stone could be anything, but I wouldn’t go over 4000 grit on a Global knife. For finishing I get very light-handed, to refine the edge without building up a wire edge. I just use edge-leading strokes in this step. And I deburr with one stroke on each side at 65-75 degrees, super light not even close to the weight of the knife, on hard super fine stone 10k plus.

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpening, call or text 310-486-6068 or email.

Amazing professionally knife sharpening on whetstones, in Santa Monica.

Posted on February 1, 2012 by admin

Why and where you could get your knives hand sharpened, on the west side.

Best knife sharpening in Santa Monica hand sharpening a slicer

Me doing the final sharpening of a slicing knife

Here is why you should have your knives hand sharpened on whetstones.

It doesn’t soften the steel and ruin the knives, as machine sharpening does, therefor they will stay sharper much longer.
A second benefit is that it doesn’t grid away excessive material, this gives your knife a much longer life.
Also, the extreme edge finish that could be achieved, means that it will stay sharper much longer.
It’s more environmentally friendly, your knives will last much longer, no electricity will be used, and no weird chemical compounds from sharpening abrasives and steels will be released. Have you ever wondered why your knife sharpener is, using a mask while sharpening?

Or check out my post “Why you should spend a little more and have your good knife hand sharpened”

Where you could get your knives hand sharpened

I offer free pickup and delivery in Santa Monica, except during the busy season. That is November and December, you would have to drop them off and pick them up. Always call or text before coming by, to confirm that I have time, and working. If I get them early in the day, I will try to have them sharpened within a couple of hours. The address is 1423 Euclid Street, Santa Monica 90404, call or text when you get there, and I will come out and get them, no need to park,

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpener in Santa Monica call/txt 310-486-6068 or email.

Feel free to connect on Instagram @santamonicasharp

Keeping your knives happy and sharp, after a professional sharpening

Posted on January 26, 2012 by admin

How you could keep your knives sharp.

1. Use the right knife for the job: a Slicer for slicing, a Chef knife for chopping and dicing, a Paring knife for peeling and delicate stuff, a Bread knife for bread, and a Cleaver for heavy-duty cleaving and chopping. Never use them for anything they are not meant to be used for.

2. Always use a soft cutting board: end-grain wood board or a soft plastic board. Never use ceramic cutting boards, plates, or counters for cutting.

3. Always store your knives in a knife rack or use a magnetic knife holder. Never store your knives in a drawer with other knives unprotected.

4. Hide your grooved steel so you can’t find it, because it is a 99.9% chance that you are doing more harm than good with it to your knives. I don’t care what your butcher or celebrity chef on TV says or does, go and hide that steel now. I would say that half of the knives I sharpen, I do because the client has steeled them dull. Instead, use a ceramic or leather strop. Done regularly a few strokes on each side should be enough, and it will keep your knife sharper much longer.

5. Always rinse and dry your knives after use, don’t leave them dirty on the counter. Never put them in the dishwasher, not even if they say that they are dishwasher safe.

6. Get your knives sharpened before they go really dull, and they will last much longer.

Best knife sharpening in Santa Monica shows how to strop a knife

Stropping knife on a leather strop

Magnus Pettersson hand knife sharpener

1423 Euclid Street, Santa Monica, CA 90404

For sharpening requests call or text 310-486-6068 or email.

You are welcome to follow me on Instagram @santamonicasharp

Happy Professional sharpener, shows how to sharpen a knife better

Posted on January 26, 2012 by admin

What you need to do before you can sharpen your knife

Start with making sure that the knives are clean, and straight, also determine if they have chips or other damages that need attention. You also have to check if the edge bevel is straight, with the correct angle for the knife. All of this needs to be corrected before sharpening could begin. Straighten and do all repairs, for this, I recommend a really coarse DMT plate which makes it fast and easy, and for bevelling something in the 500# grit range is perfect to set the initial edge.

Putting the correct angle on the knife

Before starting, prepare the stones and make sure they are flat and clean. Find the right bevel angle for the knife, somewhere between 15-20 degrees is a good starting point. An easy way to find the angle is to measure the height of the blade at the heel, let’s say that your knife is 2” high at the heel, as in the picture below.

best knife sharpening in Pacific Palisades measuring knife blade height at heel

Measuring knife blade height at the heel

In this case, you could just divide the height of the blade, to get an estimated height that you need to hold the spine above the stone. Below I have a large heavy-duty knife of bad quality so I decided to give it an obtuse edge angle of 30°. I divided the height of my blade by 2 and that tells me that I have to hold the spine one inch above the stone, see the picture below.

Measuring knife spine distance from stone

Here is a table of rough estimates of values to divide the blade height for different angles.

For 30° divide by 2

For 24° divide by 2.5

For 20° divide by 3

For 15° divide by 4

For 12° divide by 5

The knife sharpening process

When you have fixed everything you need and the angle is right you can start sharpening. I usually start with a coarse stone 700# grit till I get a smooth straight even edge with a burr. Next, I continue with a medium stone in the 1000# – 2000# grit range making sure that I keep it tight and have a light burr. I usually hold the knife diagonal over the stone to avoid wobbling, see the picture below.

best knife sharpening in Los Angeles Hand sharpening knife diagonally to avoid wobbling

Santa Monica hand sharpening knife diagonally to avoid wobbling

After this I deburr with some light edge trailing strokes on both sides and a few slicing strokes on a cork or a piece of wood, before moving on to the finishing stones.

Edge tailing strokes on fine sharpening stone to deburr

Deburring knife edge on cork

Finishing the edge to your desire

Usually, I start the finishing work with a fine stone in the 4000# – 6000# grit range. While using lighter and lighter pressure, this stage it’s a lot about feedback. What does it sound like, does the water roll up on the edge evenly, and so on? If the groundwork has been done correctly on the coarser stones 10 strokes per side should be enough. This should be enough for most ordinary kitchen knives, just deburr on a cork. At this stage, you should be able to shave with the knife with a little bit of pressure.

If you want you could continue with super fine stones, but that is pure vanity. I most often only use a 8k# and 12k# stone to get that shiny mirror finish. Of course, you could continue to refine it even more, but that is more for straight razors.

Things to remember

Make sure the stones are flat and clean.
Don’t use too much pressure, let the stones do the work.
Avoid doing it too fast, so you don’t wobble.
Try your best to keep the angle, after a while it will come naturally.

Magnus Pettersson hand knife sharpening

1423 Euclid Street, Santa Monica, CA 90404

To request knife sharpening call or text 310-486-6068 or email.

Please follow me on Instagram @santamonicasharp

Knife repair, giving new life to a broken knife

Posted on October 20, 2011 by admin

Santa Monica Knife Sharpening

Unsharp broken knife before regrinding

This knife was given to me by a good friend, at first look it doesn’t look to bad except for the big chip right there the heel starts. After a closer look I realized that the primary bevel was concave and parts of the edge was folded over, I also realized that the secondary bevel was way wider in the back and at the tip. Look at that tip I could have folded it by hand, it was thin as aluminum foil. At the moment I just saw two different ways to fix it, one was to leave the primary bevel concave and try to give it a new edge on the side of a sharpening stone, or regrind a new flat primary bevel and give some sort of compound edge. I decide to give it a new primary bevel to get rid of all edge damages and big scratches on shinogi.

Illustration of edge before and after regrinding

Above is a little illustration what it look like before and after, and what I would like to achieve. First I went to work with a large blacksmith file, because of the amount of material that I needed to take off, just to realized that it didn’t give me much precision, tried a bunch of different coarse stones, the one that eventually seams to do the best job was Beston #500. With this stone I worked until I got an even flat primary bevel all the way to the edge, I also used it to set the secondary bevel. After that I changed to King #1000 to smooth both bevels out and did some initial sharpening. After that just a fast brush with Bester #2000, before starting with my favorite stone it’s a man made blue Aoto rated to #2000 but feels much finer. This blue Aoto gives that perfect mist to the soft steel on the primary bevel, its super soft and have great feedback; the only thing is that if you don’t want your hand to look dirty for days after, use glows. For final sharpening and finishing on the secondary bevel I use Kitayama #8000 also a great stone, after this just some light stropping, before setting the micro bevel with Shun #6000 wish gives a nice bite to the edge.

I also did some clean up and light polishing just to make it easier to clean, I’m using it daily now, and its one of my favorite knives. I realized that I’m not good at always cleaning and drying the knife after use, so it started to get some stains/rust on the pretty mist on the primary bevel, so I gave it a light polish with #2000 sandpaper and all is good now. Yes of course its sharp, not hair popping sharp, but sharp enough to shave with or to slice cigarette paper into small strips. Pictures of the knife after regrinding below.

Knife after repair, regrinding and polishing

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpener, now serving the whole Westside with free pickup and delivery: Santa Monica, Brentwood, Pacific Palisades, Venice, Marina Del Rey, Culver City and West LA.

For free pickup and delivery on the Westside, call/txt 310-486-6068 or email.

What edge angle to use on different knives

Posted on October 20, 2011 by admin

What edge angles to use is really subjective, because it is really a matter of personal preferences. The steeper angle the sharper edge, but it will also be more fragile. There is a few other things to take in to consideration though; how will the knife be used, the quality of the steel and blade thickness.

Western kitchen knives are traditionally of softer steel and take an edge angle of 19–23°, while Japanese kitchen knives are traditionally of harder steel and take an edge angle of 13–18°

Here are some rough guide lines, for what edge angle to use:

Thin flexible high quality slicing knives; thin fillet knives and roaster slicers that seldom touches the cutting board 13°

Thin high quality kitchen knives, that gets light use like slicing fish, meat and tomatoes and that needs to be extremely sharp 15°

Medium and heavy duty kitchen knives 18°- 23°

Very thick blades like cleavers 25°- 30°

Small thin pocket knives 20°

Medium pocket knives 23°

Big thick pocket knives 25°

Thin hunting knives 20°

Hunting knives 23°

Heavy duty hunting, camping and utility knives 25°- 30°

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpener, now serving the whole Westside with free pickup and delivery: Santa Monica, Brentwood, Pacific Palisades, Venice, Marina Del Rey, Culver City and West LA.

For free pickup and delivery on the Westside, call/txt 310-486-6068 or email.

Fixing reverse bow edge and sharpening a Global knife

Posted on October 20, 2011 by admin

Reverse bow edge

As you see in the image of the knife, the edge just make contact at heal and tip, with a big gap between the surface and the edge in the middle. This is a common damage for knives that has been sharpened on small electrical counter machines. The easiest way to fix this is to grind the edge down till it makes contact all the way on the side of a coarse sharpening stone.

The bow edge is know fixed and in contact with the whole edge

This is after the edge grinding, as you see the edge makes contact with the surface all the way. Time to start to recreate the bevel, for this I used a coarse DTM (steel plate with diamond particles embedded. After that I started the sharpening on Beston #500 until I got a good burr, to follow up with a no name #1000 stone, #2000 Bester, #5000 Naniwa and finally Kitayama #8000 stone.

The edge is straight, shiny and sharp on the Global knife

The Global knife once again has its edge straight, sharp and smooth

The edge is straight, smooth and shiny, and you could see that it make contact all the way after the sharpening job.

The edge in x15 magnification after the sharpening job

Well the edge doesn’t look to shiny magnified x15 in real life it looks mirror polished.

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpener, now serving the whole Westside with free pickup and delivery: Santa Monica, Brentwood, Pacific Palisades, Venice, Marina Del Rey, Culver City and West LA.

For free pickup and delivery on the Westside, call/txt 310-486-6068 or email.

When to have your knife hand sharpen and when to buy a new one

Posted on October 20, 2011 by admin

Santa Monica Knife Sharpening blog explains, when to have your knife hand sharpen and when to buy a new one.

A lot of this will be my personal opinions. Usually if you don’t have extremely high quality serrated knife, I would recommend buying a new one instead of getting it sharpened. Example if you have an old 8 inch bread knife, like the one in the picture below. Pro sharpeners would charge around $9 plus $1 per inch of serration, so the total fee of the sharpening job would be around $17

Old serrated bread knife

For $11.95 you could buy J.A. Henckels International Fine Edge Pro 8-inch Stainless-Steel Bread Knife in the picture below. That I’m sure has both higher quality and a better, sharper edge than anything a pro sharpener could accomplish on your old cheap serrated bread knife and it would save you a few dollars.

New cheap serrated bread knife

Old stainless boning knives, like the one in the picture below. Many times they have been along for a long while, sharpened down to a stick, beaten, sharpened again.

Old boning fillet knife

I’m sure they might have been ok knives once, but after all that abuse and wrongful sharpening, they are not very useful for anything. You will do better in investing in a new knife, like Victorinox 47513 6-Inch Flex Boning Knife for $17.41 bellow.

New cheap boning fillet knife

It will have better edge geometry, better harder and more flexible steel and have way better edge retention. As for buying both boning/fillet knives and serrated knives I actually recommend to buy cheap decent quality knives, and save the money to buy a better chef knife and paring knife.

Small guide to buying new knives

1. Don’t buy a knife set, you will probably just end up using 2-3 of the knives any way, use the money to buy better quality chef, slicing and paring knife instead.

2. Most important, make sure the handle works for you. It should fit well in your hand, not being to slippery and give a sense of stability.

3. Choose the right length for your chef knife, your wife wife might prefer a 6” knife and you a 10” knife, an 8” inch would work okay for both of you.

4. Think of how you cut, I’m a rocker so I prefer to have a good bow on my knife, my friend is a push cutter and prefer straighter edge.

5. Choose a knife with high quality steel, high carbon steel knife if you don’t mind some stains and are good on keeping it clean and dry, or a high carbon stainless steel if you are less careful with your knife. Usually the harder steel they sharper the knife could be and softer steel will take a little more abuse. I personally prefer extremely hard Japanese knives.

6. Think about if you prefer a bolster on your knife, some people like the heft it gives the knife. I personally don’t like it and have removed it from the knives I have that had it. Mostly because it makes the knives to front heavy, hard to pinch properly and a real pain to sharpen. Most German knives have bolster, and it is rare to see on Japanese knives now more.

7. Avoid Cutco knives, they are a rip off, they are $25 knives that they sell for a $100, no wonder they could give great warranties with that mark up. Good and affordable knives brands are; Global, Shun, Tojiro and Mac. If these are too much for your budget I would recommend Forschner knives that a great knives for the price.

How to maintain your knives

1. Use the right knife for the right duty, slicing knives for slicing, chef knives for chopping and dicing and paring knives for light duty.

2. Always use a good end wood or nylon cutting board, no cutting on counter, plates and ceramic cutting boards.

3. Always rinse them and dry them off right after use, don’t run them in the dishwasher, don’t let them lay in a dirty sink and so on.

4. Don’t use any kind of electric home knife sharpener, they ruin your knives.

5. Don’t steel your knives if you don’t know how to steel, you just make the knives duller.

6. Keep your knives sharp, and sharpen them before they go dull. If you keep on working with a dull knife you just use more and more force and damage the knife more.

How to sharpen you knives

Get a Japanese combination water stone #1000/#5000 grit, and practice using it on some cheap knives first. There is tons of information online how to do it right, watch a few you tube videos and read up on some of the theory behind sharpening. After just a few hours I promise you will be able to do an ok sharpening job, the knives will be far from razor sharp and will not stay sharp for very long, but will be good enough for kitchen use and with time you will get better and better. If you don’t have the time or feel like sharpening your knives yourself try to find someone that do hand sharpening.

What kind of knives you need

I can’t answer what knives you need, it is rather personal, but for a start I would recommend.

1. A medium size chef’s knife, as a Global G-2 or MAC Superior 8″
2. A decent paring knife like Tojiro DP or Calphalon Katana
3. A good single bevel Japanese slicing knife (Yanagiba) they are great for precision slicing any meat.

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpener, now serving the whole Westside with free pickup and delivery: Santa Monica, Brentwood, Pacific Palisades, Venice, Marina Del Rey, Culver City and West LA.

For free pickup and delivery on the Westside, call/txt 310-486-6068 or email.