How my awesome professional knife sharpening business works.

super thin carrot slice
With a sharp knife, you could cut carrot slices this thin.

How my knife sharpening service work

I’m writing this post to clarify a few things. I work out of my home, and I do run in and out a lot. So always call, text, or email to set up an appointment.  Text messages are the fastest and most convenient way for me to communicate, my number is 310-486-6068, and my email is. magnus@memagnus.com

I’m an early bird, many days I just work between 7.30 am-1 pm. The turnaround is around 10 min per knife, sometimes more depending on how busy I am and the condition and type of knife.

I’m sharpening all knives by hand on whetstones.

I do all sharpening by hand on stones, but I use a machine for major repairs, thinning, and re-profiling. Thanks to that I do all the sharpening by hand. I’m limited in how many knives I can sharpen in a day, before I get sore and have to stop. This is the main reason to set up an appointment, before coming by. Some days my hands are so beat, that I’m taking the day off to give them a chance to recover.

Feel free to visit my Instagram @santamonicashrp

Beautiful professional Knife sharpening with Nubatama ume 4000 and 6000

Knife sharpening with Nubatama ume 4000 and 6000

Knife sharpening with Nubatama ume 4k and 6k

Nubatama ume 4k and 6k

Testing Knife sharpening with the Nubatama ume 4k and 6k, are so different compared with the other stones in the series. First off they are both medium-fine stones, so I will mostly comment on how they feel and what kind of finish they leave. The 4k is medium hard and muddy, a lot like an Aoto. The 6k is hard, so hardly any dishing, no mud is just black swarf from the steel, a great pre-finisher. They both cut fast for their grit range, if any complaints the 4k leaves that green/yellow stain on everything. They both leave a very fine shiny if not mirrorish finish depending on the steel.

Knife sharpening progression

In the pictures below I will show the progression from unsharpened to strop, to demonstrate the whole knife sharpening progression, and where the Nubatamas fit in, in the progress.

Knife before sharpening

Knife before sharpening 

Knife after sharpening on 1000 grit stone

Knife after sharpening on 1000 grit stone

Knife after sharpening on 2000 grit stone

Knife after sharpening on 2000 grit stone 

Knife after sharpening on Nubatama ume 4000 grit stone

Knife after sharpening on Nubatama ume 4000 grit stone

As you see the use of Nubatama ume 4000 in the sharpening progression, does a fine job of refining the edge. It feels super smooth, cuts well and it doesn’t mud too much, and it is not rock hard so it still has great feedback. The finish it leaves looks surprisingly more polished than I would have thought; it feels and behaves like a Chosera 3000 stone. This would be a perfect final stone when sharpening soft steel knives.

Knife after sharpening on Nubatama ume 6000 grit stone

Knife after sharpening on Nubatama ume 6000 grit stone

Knife sharpening with the 6000 is very different from the 4000, it’s harder, cuts slower, and in close-up it refines the edge with a slightly finer scratch pattern. The most surprising though is that to the naked eye, the polish from the 4000 looks better. At first, I thought I did something wrong, so I retested several times side by side with different knives and every time the 4000 left a better finish to the naked eye, but in close up the 6000 had a slightly better finish. Speculation could be that they have different abrasive densities or different kinds of binding material. If I continue to finer stones, the result of the 6k is better.

Knife after sharpening on 8000 grit stone

Knife after sharpening on 8000 grit stone

They both clean up well on finer grit stones, but the 6k is a better pre-finisher.

Knife sharpening, final edge after stropping

Knife sharpening, final edge after stropping

Edge after a fast tour on the leather strop.

Conclusion:

I see no need to buy both of these stones for knives because they are not that different. I love the 4000; it is a really nice, fast-cutting stone that leaves an awesome finish. The only thing I don’t like is that green/yellow color that stains everything. The 6000 is also a really good stone that leaves a finer scratch pattern. Its hardness and low mud make it perfect for straight razors.

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpening in Santa Monica.  1-310-486-6068

Professional knife sharpener, review of Nubatama 1000 grit whetstone.

Nubatama ume 1000 grit review

Nubatama ume1000 review

Nubatama ume 1000

I don’t know what to say, this was supposed to be an ordinary review, stating the facts and impression of the stone. Fist off it isn’t like any other 1k stone, it feels porous, have a beautiful deep blue color, sounds porous dry, and feels more like a lower grit stone to the touch. My first thought was to compare it to some other very common stones in this grit range, like Sigma ps, Shapton pro, Beston and Chosera.

The second thought was to compare it to some cheap clay stones and I realized that the Nubatama would eat them alive so that would not be fair. Third thought was Chosera 1k, but I don’t use it anymore, because I usually go straight to Bester 2000 wish is my everyday midrange stone.  Well after the Nubatama 320 retired my Bester 500, maybe I should compare it to Bester 2k instead. I love Bester 2k, I know even before I start that I will still love the Bester in the end, and that there is no way that I will retire it.

Nubatama ume 1000 vs. Bester 2000

  1. Size: Nubatama wins it’s twice the size
  2. Dry out time: Bester 2k wins 3min 10sec and just 2min 26sec for Nubatama
  3. Cutting speed: Nubatama wins it’s not twice as fast, but definitely much faster
  4. Dishing: None of them dish much, but Bester dish slightly less
  5. Finish: Bester 2k wins, it leaves a much clearer finish
  6. Feel: I love the feel of Bester 2k, but with mud build up Nubatama feels super nice just in a different way.

Ok I realize that it isn’t a fair compare, I love the Bester and the grit is too different to even try to compare them. I went and got my old favorite Chosera 1k, to see if that is a better match up.

Nubatama ume 1000 vs Chosera 1000

  1. Size:  Nubatama wins it’s twice the size
  2. Dry out time: They are both thirsty stones but the Chosera wins with a tiny 10sec
  3. Cutting speed: Nubatama wins but not with much, my guesstimate is 5%-10% faster
  4. Dishing: Nubatama wins but not with much
  5. Finish: Chosera wins it has a better finish
  6. Feel: They both feel awesome but very different; I had almost forgotten how smooth the Chosera felt so this is more a matter of taste.
  7. Clean up on higher grit: I give it a slight edge to Chosera, but it is not as much as I would have thought.

Would I replace my favorite Bester 2000 with Nubatama ume 1000, no I would not. Would I choose Nubatama ume 1000 over Chosera 1k. Yes, I would because it is twice the size, dishes less, and doesn’t have that green mud that stains everything. If you care about finish in this grit range, Chosera might be your choice.

Conclusion:

Nubatama ume 1k isn’t a metal-eating beast like Sigma 1k, but it cuts faster than most other 1k stones. It doesn’t dish much and you get a big stone that will last you a while. What is amazing about sharpening on this stone is hard to put down in facts. It is a matter of feeling, after building up the first mud with another 1k stone, it has the magic. That magic feel and sound that makes you drool, awakens that warrior sharpening his sword deep inside, that have been hidden for a long while.

You slow down and close your eyes, hear and feel every stroke against the stone. It makes you feel how the power almost makes your beam energy. Everything else around you disappears. That edge is taken from sharp metal to an edge that will carry a piece of your soul forever.

Do I have to say more, I love the feel of this stone. Now I just have to find use for it. I might end up using it as a step-up stone after Nubatama ume 320. If someone was just buying a single stone to keep their knives sharp, I would definitely recommend Nubatama ume 1k as.

Magnus Pettersson hand knife sharpening in Santa Monica, call or text 310-486-6068 or email.

The master sharpeners, of two professional knife sharpening stones.

Quality evaluation of Nubatama ume #320 vs Bester #500

I just got 4 Nubatama Ume stones #320, #1k, #4k and #6k. I was hesitant to buy them because the only reviews I could find were from the people selling them. I will start with the Nubatama Ume #320, and compare it to my favorite coarse stone Bester #500. It will replace the bester in my setup if it is up to the task. I love the Bester, it cuts fast and gives decent feedback. The downside is that I use a lot of pressure with the coarse stones, they dish fast and are tough to flatten.

I use up 10-15 bester #500 a year, and it dries out way too quickly, so it’s not problem-free for me. I know I could use DMT, but I don’t like the feedback. The list of coarse stones I have tested in this grit range is extended. The one that got closest to Bester was Chosera #400 it did dish but not as much and left a nicer finish. It was not as fast, and time is money.

Knife sharpening Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500 water stones

Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500 water stones

Drying time test and dish compare of the whetstones

First I will compare, cutting speed, dishing, general feel, and the finish they leave. The Nubatama came really flat, I still gave it a fast flattening to get rid of that glossy new stone feel.

Drying time compair between Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

Drying time compared between Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

One thing that bothers me with Bester is how fast it dries out, so that was the first thing I tested. The Nubatama is a bit better, 48sec for Nubatama and 34sec for Bester. It’s almost a 50% improvement that will make a small improvement.

2 brand new Kiwi knives to use to compare Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

2 brand new Kiwi knives to use to compare Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

The cutting speed

To make the cutting speed test fair, I have used 2 brand new cheapo Kiwi knives. I know it’s cheap somewhat soft stainless, but at least it will give me an idea of how fast they cut. I have sharpened Henckel twin cermax RC 66 on Bester, but it takes a lot of time, so I know Bester’s limit.

Within time I will test the Nubatama on some tough steel too, and report how it went. I expected Nubatama to be slower cutting than Bester, after seeing how glossy. Well it wasn’t, it just took 6 strokes to get a good burr with Nubatama and 10 strokes to get a burr on Bester. So Nubatama Ume #320 cut faster and it behaves as expected for a #320 grit stone.

Edge finish difference between Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

Edge finish difference between Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

The finish

The Bester isn’t known to leave a nice finish, but Nubatamas finish at least on the burr is even rougher as it should be for a low grit stone. What I think is fascinating though, is that the surface is slightly greyer from the Nubatama which is usually a sign of a finer stone. Time will tell but I think that Bester leaves a better finish.

The difference in dishing between Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

The difference in dishing between Nubatama ume 320 and Bester 500

Dishing test

Here comes the most positive surprise Nubatama dishes less, but not by much. The picture is taken after 50 strokes on the corner of each stone, and as you see it is obvious, that Bester dishes a little bit more. So taking in effect that Nubatama is faster cutting and dishes slightly less, it should mean much less stone flattening.

Feedback and feel

There was very little difference in sound between them, and the feel was somewhat the same too. The Nubatama doesn’t have the annoying sticky feel under pressure as the Bester has. It feels a bit sandier, and rougher. They both have a similar amount of feedback feeling. I think I prefer the feel of the Nubatama. (it might just be that the Nub is the newest one and that I just have an hour on it)

I did a fast test cleaning up the scratches on a higher grit stone. In this case, I used a Bester #2000 grit. They both cleaned up equally fast, it makes me think that the finish from the Nubatama just looked rougher and they were pretty much the same.

Flattening: They are both pretty hard stones to flatten, but I think it went slightly faster to flatten the Bester.

Conclusion:

Nubatama positive: Twice the size, cuts faster, dishes slightly less, and doesn’t dry out as quickly as Bester.
Nubatama neg: Leave a slightly rougher finish and a bit harder to flatten.
Bester pos: Leave a slightly better finish, easier to flatten
Bester neg: Cuts slower, dishes more, dries out faster

After using the Nubatama a little bit more, I prefer the feel and performance of it over the Bester and it is the coarse stone I will be using from now on. I will keep the Bester, in case the Nub doesn’t perform well on a high-performance steel.

Update: After some heavy use the last week, I still love the stone. I have sharpened some hard steel +rc61 knives on it, and the nub dish as much as Bester if not a little more wish was a bit disappointing. I have realized that it is much easier to flatten than my first impression, so it evens out. One other thing it is a rather muddy stone, and it helps the cutting speed a lot, the mud is the grainy sandy kind so it is a bit messy and not the most pleasant one.

Santa Monica knife Sharpening, call/txt 310-486-6068 or email.

For more of my tests check my Instagram @santamonicashrp

Amazing professionally knife sharpening on whetstones, in Santa Monica.

Why and where you could get your knives hand sharpened, on the west side.

Best knife sharpening in Santa Monica hand sharpening a slicer

Me doing the final sharpening of a slicing knife

Here is why you should have your knives hand sharpened on whetstones.

  1. It doesn’t soften the steel and ruin the knives, as machine sharpening does, therefor they will stay sharper much longer.
  2. A second benefit is that it doesn’t grid away excessive material, this gives your knife a much longer life.
  3. Also, the extreme edge finish that could be achieved, means that it will stay sharper much longer.
  4. It’s more environmentally friendly, your knives will last much longer, no electricity will be used, and no weird chemical compounds from sharpening abrasives and steels will be released. Have you ever wondered why your knife sharpener is, using a mask while sharpening?

Or check out my post “Why you should spend a little more and have your good knife hand sharpened”

Where you could get your knives hand sharpened

I offer free pickup and delivery in Santa Monica, except during the busy season. That is November and December, you would have to drop them off and pick them up. Always call or text before coming by, to confirm that I have time, and working. If I get them early in the day, I will try to have them sharpened within a couple of hours. The address is 1423 Euclid Street, Santa Monica 90404, call or text when you get there, and I will come out and get them, no need to park,

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpener in Santa Monica call/txt 310-486-6068 or email.

Feel free to connect on Instagram @santamonicasharp

Keeping your knives happy and sharp, after a professional sharpening

How you could keep your knives sharp. 

1. Use the right knife for the job: a Slicer for slicing, a Chef knife for chopping and dicing, a Paring knife for peeling and delicate stuff, a Bread knife for bread, and a Cleaver for heavy-duty cleaving and chopping. Never use them for anything they are not meant to be used for.

2. Always use a soft cutting board: end-grain wood board or a soft plastic board. Never use ceramic cutting boards, plates, or counters for cutting.

3. Always store your knives in a knife rack or use a magnetic knife holder. Never store your knives in a drawer with other knives unprotected.

4. Hide your grooved steel so you can’t find it, because it is a 99.9% chance that you are doing more harm than good with it to your knives. I don’t care what your butcher or celebrity chef on TV says or does, go and hide that steel now. I would say that half of the knives I sharpen, I do because the client has steeled them dull. Instead, use a ceramic or leather strop. Done regularly a few strokes on each side should be enough, and it will keep your knife sharper much longer.

5. Always rinse and dry your knives after use, don’t leave them dirty on the counter. Never put them in the dishwasher, not even if they say that they are dishwasher safe.

6. Get your knives sharpened before they go really dull, and they will last much longer.

Best knife sharpening in Santa Monica shows how to strop a knife

Stropping knife on a leather strop

Magnus Pettersson hand  knife sharpener

1423 Euclid Street, Santa Monica, CA 90404

For sharpening requests call or text 310-486-6068 or email.

You are welcome to follow me on Instagram @santamonicasharp

Knife repair, giving new life to a broken knife

Santa Monica Knife Sharpening
old broken knife with chipped edge

Unsharp broken knife before regrinding

This knife was given to me by a good friend, at first look it doesn’t look to bad except for the big chip right there the heel starts. After a closer look I realized that the primary bevel was concave and parts of the edge was folded over, I also realized that the secondary bevel was way wider in the back and at the tip. Look at that tip I could have folded it by hand, it was thin as aluminum foil. At the moment I just saw two different ways to fix it, one was to leave the primary bevel concave and try to give it a new edge on the side of a sharpening stone, or regrind a new flat primary bevel and give some sort of compound edge. I decide to give it a new primary bevel to get rid of all edge damages and big scratches on shinogi.

illustration of edge before and after regrinding

Illustration of edge before and after regrinding

Above is a little illustration what it look like before and after, and what I would like to achieve. First I went to work with a large blacksmith file, because of the amount of material that I needed to take off, just to realized that it didn’t give me much precision, tried a bunch of different coarse stones, the one that eventually seams to do the best job was Beston #500. With this stone I worked until I got an even flat primary bevel all the way to the edge, I also used it to set the secondary bevel. After that I changed to King #1000 to smooth both bevels out and did some initial sharpening. After that just a fast brush with Bester #2000, before starting with my favorite stone it’s a man made blue Aoto rated to #2000 but feels much finer. This blue Aoto gives that perfect mist to the soft steel on the primary bevel, its super soft and have great feedback; the only thing is that if you don’t want your hand to look dirty for days after, use glows. For final sharpening and finishing on the secondary bevel I use Kitayama #8000 also a great stone, after this just some light stropping, before setting the micro bevel with Shun #6000 wish gives a nice bite to the edge.

I also did some clean up and light polishing just to make it easier to clean, I’m using it daily now, and its one of my favorite knives. I realized that I’m not good at always cleaning and drying the knife after use, so it started to get some stains/rust on the pretty mist on the primary bevel, so I gave it a light polish with #2000 sandpaper and all is good now. Yes of course its sharp, not hair popping sharp, but sharp enough to shave with or to slice cigarette paper into small strips. Pictures of the knife after regrinding below.

Knife after repair, regrinding and polishing

Knife after repair, regrinding and polishing

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpener, now serving the whole Westside with free pickup and delivery: Santa Monica, Brentwood, Pacific Palisades, Venice, Marina Del Rey, Culver City and West LA.

For free pickup and delivery on the Westside, call/txt 310-486-6068 or email.




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Fixing reverse bow edge and sharpening a Global knife

Reverse bow edge on Global knife

Reverse bow edge

As you see in the image of the knife, the edge just make contact at heal and tip, with a big gap between the surface and the edge in the middle. This is a common damage for knives that has been sharpened on small electrical counter machines. The easiest way to fix this is to grind the edge down till it makes contact all the way on the side of a coarse sharpening stone.

The bow edge is know fixed and in contact with the whole edge

The bow edge is know fixed and in contact with the whole edge

This is after the edge grinding, as you see the edge makes contact with the surface all the way. Time to start to recreate the bevel, for this I used a coarse DTM (steel plate with diamond particles embedded. After that I started the sharpening on Beston #500 until I got a good burr, to follow up with a no name #1000 stone, #2000 Bester, #5000 Naniwa and finally Kitayama #8000 stone.

The edge is straight, shiny and sharp on the Global knife

The Global knife once again has its edge straight, sharp and smooth

The edge is straight, smooth and shiny, and you could see that it make contact all the way after the sharpening job.

The edge in  x15 magnification after the sharpening job

The edge in x15 magnification after the sharpening job

Well the edge doesn’t look to shiny magnified x15 in real life it looks mirror polished.

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpener, now serving the whole Westside with free pickup and delivery: Santa Monica, Brentwood, Pacific Palisades, Venice, Marina Del Rey, Culver City and West LA.

For free pickup and delivery on the Westside, call/txt 310-486-6068 or email.



When to have your knife hand sharpen and when to buy a new one

Santa Monica Knife Sharpening blog explains, when to have your knife hand sharpen and when to buy a new one.

A lot of this will be my personal opinions. Usually if you don’t have extremely high quality serrated knife, I would recommend buying a new one instead of getting it sharpened. Example if you have an old 8 inch bread knife, like the one in the picture below. Pro sharpeners would charge around $9 plus $1 per inch of serration, so the total fee of the sharpening job would be around $17

Old serrated bread knife

Old serrated bread knife

For $11.95 you could buy J.A. Henckels International Fine Edge Pro 8-inch Stainless-Steel Bread Knife in the picture below. That I’m sure has both higher quality and a better, sharper edge than anything a pro sharpener could accomplish on your old cheap serrated bread knife and it would save you a few dollars.

New cheap serrated bread knife

New cheap serrated bread knife

Old stainless boning knives, like the one in the picture below. Many times they have been along for a long while, sharpened down to a stick, beaten, sharpened again.

Old boning fillet knife

Old boning fillet knife

I’m sure they might have been ok knives once, but after all that abuse and wrongful sharpening, they are not very useful for anything. You will do better in investing in a new knife, like Victorinox 47513 6-Inch Flex Boning Knife for $17.41 bellow.

New cheap boning fillet knife

New cheap boning fillet knife

It will have better edge geometry, better harder and more flexible steel and have way better edge retention. As for buying both boning/fillet knives and serrated knives I actually recommend to buy cheap decent quality knives, and save the money to buy a better chef knife and paring knife.

Small guide to buying new knives

1. Don’t buy a knife set, you will probably just end up using 2-3 of the knives any way, use the money to buy better quality chef, slicing and paring knife instead.

2. Most important, make sure the handle works for you. It should fit well in your hand, not being to slippery and give a sense of stability.

3. Choose the right length for your chef knife, your wife wife might prefer a 6” knife and you a 10” knife, an 8” inch would work okay for both of you.

4. Think of how you cut, I’m a rocker so I prefer to have a good bow on my knife, my friend is a push cutter and prefer straighter edge.

5. Choose a knife with high quality steel, high carbon steel knife if you don’t mind some stains and are good on keeping it clean and dry, or a high carbon stainless steel if you are less careful with your knife. Usually the harder steel they sharper the knife could be and softer steel will take a little more abuse. I personally prefer extremely hard Japanese knives.

6. Think about if you prefer a bolster on your knife, some people like the heft it gives the knife. I personally don’t like it and have removed it from the knives I have that had it. Mostly because it makes the knives to front heavy, hard to pinch properly and a real pain to sharpen. Most German knives have bolster, and it is rare to see on Japanese knives now more.

7. Avoid Cutco knives, they are a rip off, they are $25 knives that they sell for a $100, no wonder they could give great warranties with that mark up. Good and affordable knives brands are; Global, Shun, Tojiro and Mac. If these are too much for your budget I would recommend Forschner knives that a great knives for the price.

How to maintain your knives

1. Use the right knife for the right duty, slicing knives for slicing, chef knives for chopping and dicing and paring knives for light duty.

2. Always use a good end wood or nylon cutting board, no cutting on counter, plates and ceramic cutting boards.

3. Always rinse them and dry them off right after use, don’t run them in the dishwasher, don’t let them lay in a dirty sink and so on.

4. Don’t use any kind of electric home knife sharpener, they ruin your knives.

5. Don’t steel your knives if you don’t know how to steel, you just make the knives duller.

6. Keep your knives sharp, and sharpen them before they go dull. If you keep on working with a dull knife you just use more and more force and damage the knife more.

How to sharpen you knives

Get a Japanese combination water stone #1000/#5000 grit, and practice using it on some cheap knives first. There is tons of information online how to do it right, watch a few you tube videos and read up on some of the theory behind sharpening. After just a few hours I promise you will be able to do an ok sharpening job, the knives will be far from razor sharp and will not stay sharp for very long, but will be good enough for kitchen use and with time you will get better and better. If you don’t have the time or feel like sharpening your knives yourself try to find someone that do hand sharpening.

What kind of knives you need

I can’t answer what knives you need, it is rather personal, but for a start I would recommend.

1. A medium size chef’s knife, as a Global G-2 or MAC Superior 8″
2. A decent paring knife like Tojiro DP or Calphalon Katana
3. A good single bevel Japanese slicing knife (Yanagiba) they are great for precision slicing any meat.

Magnus Pettersson hand sharpener, now serving the whole Westside with free pickup and delivery: Santa Monica, Brentwood, Pacific Palisades, Venice, Marina Del Rey, Culver City and West LA.

For free pickup and delivery on the Westside, call/txt 310-486-6068 or email.



Sharpness testing, professional knife sharpener explaining what sharp is happy

Sharpness scale from 0 to 5

Customers say that they want their knives super sharp.  I have to ask them how sharp that is, which they never could answer. Instead, I asked them what or how they cut, meat, produce, or boxes. The follow-up question was if they sliced or chopped, and if they pulled or push cut. If we had a scale from ridiculously sharp as five down to a dull 0. Let’s start with sharpness 5 which is the hanging hair test (HHT).

Hanging hair test

Hanging hair test

5 the hanging hair test

You see that this old knife doesn’t pass the test, because the hair is hanging on the edge. The pieces of cut-off hair on the paper came from that I came in with a bit of an angle lining it up. Next up is sharpness number 4, which is to smoothly slice cigarette paper from heel to tip or push cutting it.

cigarette paper slicing

cigarette paper slicing

cigarette paper cutting with knife tip

cigarette paper cutting with knife tip

cigarette paper cutting with knife heel

cigarette paper cutting with knife heel

4 cigarette paper cutting

As you see the old knife passes this test, the only thing was that I felt a light resistance at the back and of the heel starting. This is too sharp for a kitchen knife, except for single beveled knives, and delicate fillet knives. 3, which is that it should be able to push-cut Para-cord without a problem from heel to tip and be able to shave hair.

Push cutting paracord easy 1

Push cutting paracord easy 1

Push cutting paracord easy 2

Push cutting paracord easy 2

Shaving hair

Shaving hair

3 shaving hair and push-cutting paracord

These tests are passed easily; 3 is a good sharpness for most thin kitchen knives like slicers, and fillet knives. Sharpness 2 is to slice magazine paper from heel to tip, slowly, and smoothly without any snagging.

Slicing magazine paper easy and smooth

Slicing magazine paper easily and smoothly

2 Slicing magazine paper smoothly

This knife is almost too sharp for this test I’m pretty sure the paper will dull it. 2 is good for medium, and heavy-duty kitchen knives. Believing that most people would be comfortable with 2 sharpness of their kitchen knives. To be able to slice ordinary printing paper, cutting into the side of a tomato or lemon without slipping is the lowest sharpness.

Slicing lemon paper thin

Slicing lemon paper thin

Slicing printing paper smooth for heel to tip

Slicing printing paper smooth from heel to tip

1 Slicing magazine paper

This is still a good sharpness for your heavy-duty kitchen knives and cleavers. If you don’t pass the test, your knife is dull and needs sharpening. I call this sharpness number 0.

Sharpness:       Test:                                                    For:

5                      Hanging hair test                                 Straight razors

4                      Slicing cigarette paper                         Delicate slicing knives

3                      Push cut Para-cord, shaves                 Thin kitchen knives, fillet knives

2                      Slicing magazine paper                       Most medium kitchen knives

1                      Slicing printer paper smooth               Heavy kitchen knives and cleavers

Other sharpness testing is better but takes more skill and danger

Finger nail tests, Does it dig into the nail and grab it? Does it slide smoothly over the nail? If put a low angle against the nail does it stay? The test could all be modified, and be done with a plastic pen but with less feedback.

Slice test, Hard rolled Kleenex, wet rolled towel, tomato slicing, hemp rope slicing, slicing into the side of a standing toilet paper roll.

Thumb test, feel for burr, feel how much it sticks to the finger.

Machine test, Njut, Catra, Bess, Lasergionometer.

Magnus Pettersson hand knife sharpener

1423 Euclid Street, Santa Monica, CA 90404

To request sharpening call or text 310-486-6068 or email.

Please follow my Instagram @santamonicasharp